October 17th, 2011

Apricot squash couscous. Pumpkin tarragon lasagne. Barley, chickpea and feta stuffed eggplant.

Churning out dishes that sound yum, healthy and exotic – and taste it too – it’s not hard to see why mostly organic wholefood delivery company Birds in a Row has been a hit among the city’s home-delivery aficionados, especially the vegetarians among them. Now, with the opening of Seven Spoons, you can tuck into the same lovingly homemade international and Mediterranean influenced meals while sat in a stylish Soulfood Mahanakornesque shophouse as opposed to your living room.

A couple of things to bear in mind before you hop in a taxi with all your bohemian friends. Tucked away on a parade of old shophouses in the Ratchadamnoen area, Seven Spoons is quite hard to find. And it’s tiny – really tiny, with only two tables big enough for three and one table big enough for four, five at a push.

Call ahead (friendly Canadian co-owner Regan Suzuki recommends it, as they’ve had to turn people away in the past) and print out a map (or use google maps on your smartphone, as we did) though and we’re positive you won’t regret it. The tone of this restored Chinese shophouse lined with golden teak slats and warmed by lamps is relaxed yet elegant. And the food unlike anything else you’ll find in town.

Made using as much local and organic produce as they can source, the current 28-item ‘summer’ menu opens with starters like the moreish chardonnay pate served with wholemeat crispbread from local bread delivery company, Bangkok Breadboys (B180). Another winner were the sweet and sharp notes of the Halloumi cheese on tomato slices and topped with olives and caramelised almonds (b160).

Seven Spoon’s forte – adventurous combos of a few unprocessed ingredients into something uncomplicated yet exciting – is even more apparent with mains courses like pumpkin pine nut tortellini with sage butter (a delicate treat; B220) and white snapper with spiced chickpeas in butter ginger sauce (well plated, perfectly fried; B280).

Almost surprising as the fact that the chef behind this wholefood goodness, Somkiat ‘Joke’ Pairojmahakij, is almost entirely self-taught are the prices. Order in four dishes and you should still have change from B1,000. That leaves you with more pocket money to spend, say, knocking back cocktails on nearby Khao San Road, a natural next port of call.

Better still, you could use it to sample Seven Spoon’s own spirited batch of tipples, all shaken and stirred by the well-spoken bartender Khun Bee, who learnt his craft at Khao San’s Sri Poom bar and has honed it here by experimenting with local ingredients.

A trio of signatures includes the ‘Silver Spoon’ (B180): a refreshing short glass of Martini Bianco, spiced run, lime and galangal. And if that doesn’t take your fancy, he’s sure to have a recommendation or two for you.

Serving homey wholefood similar to the kind served in boho healthfood shops across the western world, only without the offputting reek of patchouli and hard-line vegetarianism, this natty neighbourhood gastrobar is well worth hunting down. Max Crosbie-Jones

WHERE 211 Chakkrapatipong Road (corner of Lan Luang and Chakkrapatipong Rd);
084-539-1819 or 02-628-4588; http://sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com
OPEN  Open 6pm- midnight, seven days a week.
เซเว่น สพูนส์ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

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